Forgotten Highway 43
- Sarah-Jane Lee
- 52 minutes ago
- 5 min read
A Slow Road Trip Through New Zealand Backcountry:
Central North Island Road Trip Guide
Gravel roads, scenic podocarp forest & ghost towns
The Forgotten Highway 43 is one of New Zealand’s great backcountry road trips; a winding journey through podocarp forest, river valleys, remote saddles, abandoned settlements, hand-cut tunnels and the proudly quirky Republic of Whangamōmona.
This is not a road to rush.
It is a slow-travel route where the best moments are often found beside a fence post, at a gravel pull-off, outside a fading old shopfront, or halfway through a gorge where the forest still feels ancient.
For travellers who enjoy quiet roads, layered history and landscapes that feel far from the obvious tourist trail, the Forgotten Highway is one of the Central North Island’s most rewarding drives.
The Forgotten Highway is part of a series of North Island backroad journeys.
Forgotten Highway road trip facts
Route: Taumarunui to Stratford
Distance: Around 197 km
Recommended time: 1–2 days
Nearest airport: New Plymouth
Best time to go: November to March
Road conditions: Narrow, winding and partly unsealed
Fuel: Fill up before leaving Taumarunui or Stratford
The Forgotten Highway can be driven in a few hours without stopping, but that misses the point. Allow at least one full day, or stay overnight in Whangamōmona if you want to explore the detours, tunnels, waterfalls and old settlements properly.
Why drive the Forgotten Highway?
The Forgotten Highway is ideal for visitors who want to see a quieter, greener and more atmospheric side of regional New Zealand.
The route follows old Māori tracks, colonial bridle paths and early settlement routes through rugged country that was never easy to tame. Today, the road still feels remote. Forest presses close. Hills fold into one another. Waterfalls appear. Abandoned buildings hint at former lives, and the landscape often feels as if it is slowly reclaiming the road.
This is the Central North Island with a backcountry edge.
Best direction to drive
The easiest starting point for many travellers is Taumarunui, especially if coming from Taupō, Tūrangi, Rotorua or Whanganui National Park.
From the Taranaki side, begin at Stratford, with New Plymouth nearby for gardens, coastal walks and Surf Highway road trips.
Either direction works. The route is a one-way scenic connection between the Central North Island plateau and Taranaki.
Travel tip: fuel and road conditions
There are no petrol stations along the Forgotten Highway itself, so fill your tank before you start.
The road includes narrow bends, one-way sections, gravel stretches and steep climbs. It is not dangerous if driven carefully, but it does demand attention.
Slow down, pull over safely for photos, and be prepared for changing weather.
In winter, fog, ice and road closures can occur. In any season, pack layers, a raincoat and insect repellent.
Key stops on the Forgotten Highway
Lauren’s Lavender Farm
Just outside Taumarunui, Lauren’s Lavender Farm is a gentle beginning to the journey. The scent of lavender, a café stop and riverside setting make it a pleasant pause before the road becomes more remote.
It is usually open from October to May, with lavender at its best from early January to early March.
Ohura detour: ghost town atmosphere
For travellers interested in abandoned places, the detour to Ohura adds a strong sense of history and decay.
Once a busy rural service town, Ohura is now largely quiet. Former shops, fading signs and empty buildings speak of a settlement shaped by boom, decline and isolation. It is one of those places where the story is not presented on a plaque; it sits in the street, waiting to be noticed.
This detour includes gravel roads, narrow sections and beautiful backcountry scenery.
Matiere and the Okahukura Saddle
The route through Matiere and the Okahukura Saddle reveals hill country, farmland, sheep paddocks and the memory of once-busier rural communities.
Before European settlement, Māori routes passed through this region, linking inland Taumarunui with the west coast.
Later, returned soldiers and settlers tried to build new lives here.
Today, the landscape feels both peaceful and quietly haunted by the effort it took to live in this country.
Tangarakau Gorge
The Tangarakau Gorge is one of the most scenic sections of the Forgotten Highway.
Expect deep green forest, ferns, moss, steep banks and a road that feels wrapped in vegetation. The gorge is a reminder of New Zealand’s ancient podocarp forests, where the undergrowth changes shade every few metres and the landscape feels primeval.
The road through this section is narrow and unsealed in places. Take your time.
Mount Damper Falls
The detour to Mount Damper Falls is worth considering if you enjoy short walks and remote countryside.
The waterfall drops around 78 metres and is reached by a relatively easy walking track across farmland.
Local farmers provide access, and the walk gives visitors a chance to move slowly through rural country rather than simply drive through it.
The track may close seasonally for lambing, so check conditions before visiting.
Whangamōmona Republic
No Forgotten Highway road trip is complete without stopping in Whangamōmona.
This tiny settlement famously declared itself a republic and has leaned into its quirky identity with humour and determination. The hotel remains the centrepiece, attracting road trippers, motorcyclists, cyclists and anyone who enjoys a place with a story.
You can even collect a Republic of Whangamōmona passport stamp; just not in your actual passport.
For slow travellers, Whangamōmona is also a practical overnight stop. Booking ahead is recommended.
Forgotten Highway tunnels
The Forgotten Highway is known for its narrow, atmospheric road tunnels.
Moki Tunnel
The best-known tunnel on the route, often referred to as the Hobbit’s Hole, is a single-lane tunnel cut through the hillside.
Makahu Tunnel
A pioneer tunnel built to provide early access to remote farming valleys.
Kiore Tunnel
A narrow, original-style tunnel that still feels like a throwback to another era of rural engineering.
These tunnels are part of the road’s charm. They also remind visitors how difficult access once was for the people who lived and worked in this region.
Strathmore Saddle
The Strathmore Saddle is one of the route’s great viewpoint areas.
On a clear day, you may see volcanic peaks including Tongariro, Ruapehu, Ngāuruhoe and Taranaki. The views are big, dramatic and deeply connected to the Central North Island’s volcanic landscape.
This is a good place to pause and let the scale of the journey sink in.
What to connect with nearby
The Forgotten Highway works well as part of a larger North Island road trip.
You can connect it with:
Whanganui River Road
Tongariro National Park
New Plymouth
Whanganui National Park
Taranaki gardens and coastal walks
For a slower itinerary, combine Whanganui River Road, the Forgotten Highway and Taranaki into one memorable backcountry-and-coast route.
