Blackball, West Coast: The Town That Refused to Die
Updated: Oct 11
Blackball is the town that refused to die. When the Roa Mine closed, most of its people left, but this little Grey Valley village hung on, with a slightly offbeat, shabby-genteel charm and a stubborn spirit that has written it into New Zealand's history books. The locals' motto says it all: "the centre of the universe".
Heritage views of Blackball, historic gold mining village Blackball continues to have a general store, West Coast N Outdoor museum in converted containers, Blackball, West Coast NZ
Where a lunch break changed the country
In 1908, miner Pat Hickey hadn't finished his lunch when the whistle blew, just 15 minutes into the break. His defiance sparked the Blackball "crib time" strike, which lasted three months and took on a foreign-owned mining company. The miners won, and the strike became a turning point for the labour movement. Blackball is often called one of the birthplaces of the New Zealand Labour Party.
Tell the story properly at Mahi Tupuna, the Blackball Museum of Working Class History, set in converted containers in the open air and run by volunteers.
The Pike River Memorial Wheel
Behind the museum stands the Blackball Memorial Wheel, with 29 panels for the 29 men lost in the 2010 Pike River Mine disaster. It's a quiet, moving place to pause.
Formerly the Blackball Hilton
The village pub is one of the West Coast's most famous. It called itself the Blackball Hilton until the international hotel chain objected, so now it's proudly "Formerly the Blackball Hilton". Ask the publican how it got its name, and the answer may depend on what they think you want to hear.
Expect classic Kiwi pub meals, local history books on the tables, labour heroes on the walls, quirky toilets and dress-up boxes for kids (and adults). Kids will love a ginger beer here.
Blackball Salami
The award-winning Blackball Salami Co. makes salami and sausages from locally sourced meat. Pick some up for a road-trip picnic.
Walks, tracks and trout
Croesus Track: an old miners' track across the Paparoa Range from Blackball to Barrytown, following in the footsteps of thousands who came looking for gold
Paparoa Track: Blackball is the eastern gateway to this Great Walk and mountain bike ride across the Paparoa Range to Punakaiki. Check DOC for the status of the Pike29 Memorial Track, which links to it
Old mine sites: look for relics from the town's coal-mining days, or ask locally about guided walks through old tunnels
Fishing: brown trout in the Grey River and its tributaries, with Lake Brunner about 45 minutes away
Heritage buildings
The grand three-storey Blackball Community Centre, with its turret, was built in 1910 as the mine manager's house. Both it and the hotel are listed heritage buildings.
Best selfie spots
Opposite Formerly the Blackball Hilton
Beside the Blackball Memorial Wheel
Blackball at a glance
Where: About 25 km, or 30 minutes, from Greymouth. Turn off the Taylorville–Blackball Road; Blackball itself is a no-exit road
Named after: The Blackball Shipping Line
Time needed: An hour or two, or a night before the Paparoa Track
Best for: Labour history, a pub lunch, salami and trampers
Where to stay
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Plan your visit
Add it to the Greymouth inland day trip
Make Greymouth your base with my Greymouth travel guide
Planning the whole coast? Kumara, Ross, Lake Brunner and Blackball are easy detours from New Zealand's Great West Coast Road Trip, my guide to the full drive from Westport to Haast.
FAQs
Why is Blackball famous?
For the 1908 'crib time' miners' strike, a turning point for the New Zealand labour movement, as well as Formerly the Blackball Hilton and Blackball Salami.
How far is Blackball from Greymouth?
About 25 km, or 30 minutes' drive, via the Taylorville–Blackball Road.
Does the Paparoa Track start in Blackball?
Blackball is the eastern gateway to the Paparoa Track, a Great Walk and mountain bike trail that crosses the Paparoa Range to Punakaiki.
